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Having  accumulated experience and knowledge in cleaning and maintenance procedures and materials for over 10 years, we at RTS Inc., would like to share all this valuable information, that will save time and money, with you.

Why Use RTS Inc. Floor Care Products

From carpet to stone, floor surfaces must be protected in order to maintain their beauty. They are subject to assault from many unseen forces. Here are a few:

  • Sunlight
  • Grit, sand, dust, gum and red mud
  • Grease and grime
  • Foot traffic
  • Spilled foods and drinks
  • Urine and fecal matter
  • Bacteria and germs
  • Improper cleaning chemicals and procedures

RTS Inc. Floor care products are designed to protect and enhance the beauty of floors. By following the procedures listed in this manual, your floors will have  lasting beauty too. Since 1995, RTS Inc. has helped many facilities increase their overall appearance. Let us help you do the same.

How to Care for Floor Pads, Mops, and Buckets

The useful life of cleaning tools and supplies (excluding solutions and cleansers) depends on:

  • The quality and design of the products being used
  • How the products are used
  • How well the tools are maintained

Use the following tips to extend the life of your equipment.

Floor pads
Floor pads come in a variety of colors and sizes. They are made from materials that are designed to do specific jobs. Here’s how to extend the life of your floor pads:

  • Carefully install the pad onto your rotary floor machine so it is centered. A floor pad that is not centered will wear unevenly and will create a safety hazard, since the machine will be more difficult to control
  • Do not bump into objects with the machine. If a rotating pad hits furniture or other objects, the pad can tear or snag, and objects can be damaged
  • Since floor pads are made of various material types, using the correct cleaning method for each type is important.
  • Clean these quality pads using their own die-cut center, or a medium bristle brush, to scrape away accumulated dirt.

Polyester pads:   There are three methods for cleaning these pads:

  • Soak them in Perfecto Stripping Solution until the accumulated dirt is loosened, then rinse with a water hose
  • Wash them under high-pressure water
  • Launder them in lukewarm water
  • Hang the pads in a storage area to dry after they have been cleaned

Most synthetic mop heads are coated with a chemical preservative which makes them less absorbent. Also, new cotton mop heads do not absorb as well as they does after some use, since their fibres are still coated with natural oils. Before using new mop heads, wash them in Pronto All Purpose Cleaner and warm water to remove these coatings. Mop heads are made of cotton, rayon, and blends of materials. Cotton mop heads are satisfactory for most floor care procedures except finishing/ waxing. Rayon mop heads leave little lint, so are better to use for finishing or waxing. Since cotton mop heads hold water best, use them for drying floors. 
Always use a clean mop head when scrubbing, sealing, or applying a finish. Use old mop heads for applying stripping solutions.

Do's and Don'ts for Mop heads

  • Clean (rinse well or launder) mop heads after each use
  • Hang mop heads to air-dry after each use
  • Launder mop heads in a synthetic mesh laundry bag
  • Wash mop heads in a Quadine disinfectant solution
  • Have a mop head for each procedure (scrubbing, stripping and waxing)


  • Leave mop heads in chemicals or cleaning solutions even for a short time
  • Twist mop heads in wringers since this weakens the fibres
  • Bleach mop heads, or use them in a solution with bleach
  • Wash mop heads in water over 160 F, or dry in temperatures above 160 F

Buckets should be checked before and after each use for cleanliness. Even a slightly dirty bucket will contaminate fresh water and cleaning solutions. When preparing to apply a sealer or floor finish, first, line your mop bucket with a plastic trash bag, then pour your sealer or finish into the lined bucket. After completing the job, take the plastic bag with the remaining solution out of the bucket and dispose of properly. When a job is completed and the buckets have been cleaned, put them in your storage area upside-down. Be sure to put the buckets where people will not trip over them. Wringers should be rinsed thoroughly and wiped dry.

Determine Chemical Cost by Dilution Rate.

To Determine Your Cost:

Cost to use:  Ounces per Gallon 
Divide dilution rate into cost per gallon Divide dilution ration into 128
1:256 dilution selling at $12.30 per gallon: $12.30/257=.048 or 4.8 cents per diluted gallon 1:85 dilution = 128/85 = 1.5 ounces per gallon

How to Wet-Mop Floors

Supplies and Equipment Needed
One mop bucket and wringer (on dolly or cart with casters if possible)
"Floor Hazard" sign
Neutrex or Floreze All-Purpose Cleaner
Industrial Cotton or Pro-Cotton wet mop
Fresh water source
Prepare area 

  • Place wet floor hazard sign in easily seen location near area to be mopped
  • Dust mop or sweep debris from the area
  • Move furniture as needed for easier mopping
  • Set equipment in area where work will begin
  • Start at farthest corner of area and work backward toward door
  • Keep mop bucket on un-mopped portion of floor where it cannot be tipped over. 
  • Fill mop bucket with cleaning solution and water until full  (Follow instructions for diluting cleaning solution)
  • Fill second mop bucket with clear water until full
  • Dip mop head into RTS cleaning solution and wring out slightly
  • Mop the floor along the edge of baseboards first
  • Mop head should just touch the baseboard
  • Don't slop mop head on vertical part of baseboard

 Mop the floor area using a side to side, figure eight motion 

  • Overlap each stroke while stepping backward
  • Mop head should be held at about 15 degree angle to prevent back strain
  • Use your shoulder muscles to swing the mop and your hands as guides

Each time both sides of the mop head are soiled, rinse in fresh water bucket and wring lightly
Always change out the fresh water bucket when dirty
Repeat the above procedure until all floors have been wet mopped
Use non-skid shoes or over-shoes.

How to Strip Floors


To remove a floor finish (wax) when any of the following occurs:

  • The color begins to turn.
  • The finish begins to build up.
  • Mopping, spray buffing or re-waxing does not give the results desired.

Supplies and Equipment

Treated dust mop
Brush and dust pan
Putty knife
Wet/dry vacuum
2 buckets
2 downward pressure wringers
Stripping solution, like Perfecto Floor Stripper
Fresh water (use cool water)
Commercial neutralizer, like Neutrex
Wet mop
Floor machine
Stripping pads:
"Floor Hazard" signs
 Slip resistant shoes

1.  Prepare the area:

  •  Place "Floor Hazard" signs in easy-to-see locations at entrances to area being stripped.
  •  Move furniture. Work around heavy furniture or equipment that cannot be moved. Tilt file cabinets and mount on blocks.
  •  Sweep the floor with a treated dust mop or vacuum the floor.
  •  Remove gum and other foreign material with a putty knife.
  •  Place stripping pad on the machine. 
  •  Set equipment in area where work will begin. In a room start in the farthest corner from the entrance.

2. Follow instructions for using the stripping solution and pour into the bucket. Use cool tap water.  Hot water can loosen tile adhesive and cause solution to dry too fast.

 3. Dip mophead into stripping solution. Wring slightly so the mophead still drips a little. Fan out the mophead on the floor and start applying solution at the edges. Remember, most build-up is at the edges.

4. Apply the solution in a 6' to 7' arc or side to side movement to cover the area between the edges. Cover only a 100 to 125 square foot area at a time.

5. Where splashing on the walls and baseboards occurs, wipe off immediately with a damp cloth.

6. Let the solution soak on the floor 4 to 5 minutes.

7. Using the floor machine strip the area that is covered with solution. Overlap the strokes made by the machine.

8. Use the mop and empty bucket or wet/dry vacuum to pick up dirty solution. Do not allow solution to dry on the floor.

9. Rinse area using fresh water and mophead which is slightly wrung out.

10. Clean mophead with water after the first rinsing of the floor is complete.

11. Rinse two more times with fresh water. In the final rinse add commercial neutralizer following the instructions. A neutralized floor gives a much better bond of the finish to the tile.

12. Allow floor to dry. Restrip any high gloss spots.

13. Allow floor to dry at least one hour after final rinse.

Check floor to be sure it is ready for finish by wiping the hand across a section of the floor. If a white powder comes up, the floor has not been rinsed properly and must be rinsed until no white powder comes up after the floor is dry. When the white powder no longer comes up on the hand, the floor is ready to be finished (waxed).

After following this procedure the floor will be free of all sealers, finishes, dirt, grime, gum, other foreign matter and have no powdery residue. The floor is then ready for finish to bond to the floor tile properly.

How to Finish Floors


To provide a protective floor surface which improves the floor's appearance and is easy to maintain.
Remember, the thickness of 3 coats of finish (wax) is less than the thickness of wax paper, therefore, the finish (wax) must be applied properly to do the job.

Supplies and Equipment

2 buckets on dolly or cart with casters
2 wringers (one per bucket)
Plastic liners
"Floor Hazard" signs
Finishing Mop, we suggest our Super Waxer Looped–End Candy Striped Finishing Mop (make sure  the mop used in this procedure is clean and only used for floor finishing) 
Floor finish, like our Duragloss Floor Finish
Floor machine (optional)
Fresh water


1. Prepare to finish floor area:


  •  Follow floor stripping procedure 
  •  Allow floor to dry. Pick up any lint or other foreign material.
  •  Move supplies and equipment into area where floor is being finished.
  •  Place "Floor Hazard" signs at entrances to area if they are not already there.
  •  Fill one bucket 3/4 full with fresh water.
  •  Put plastic liner into empty bucket before pouring in the finish, then pour finish into plastic lined bucket. The plastic liner keeps the  bucket clean and keeps the finish (wax) from becoming contaminated with residue that might be in the bucket.

2. Dip clean mophead into fresh water and wring out well.

3. Dip the damp mophead into the floor finish (wax) and wring out so mophead does not drip.

4. Starting at the farthest corner from the door, apply a thin coat of finish on the floor next to the baseboard on each side of the corner. Apply 6' to 9' at a time.
Turn the mophead often and redip in finish before the mophead becomes dried out and streaks the floor.

5. Using a side to side (figure eight) movement, apply the finish to the floor area and overlap the strokes of the mophead as shown below. Avoid splashing. Apply amounts of finish evenly and cover all areas.

6. Allow floor to dry 20 - 30 minutes or until floor does not feel tacky to the touch.

7. If needed, apply more coats of finish as before except stay 6" to 12" away from the baseboards. This area gets little or no wear since people cannot walk that close to the baseboard. Multiple coats of finish at the base boards build up too much.

8. Allow second coat to dry completely.

9. If buffing is desired between coats to level the finish and to increase the gloss, be sure:

  •  That the finish (wax) used is buffable
  •  To use the correct buffing pad on the floor machine.  

Remember, when buffing between applications of coats of finish, be sure to mop the floor with a dry dust mophead before applying the next coat. Buffing between coats helps to level the finish.

10. Remove "Floor Hazard" signs after floor is dry.

11. Clean mophead (simply rinse finish from mop with clean water and hang to dry) and buckets.

12. Store your equipment and supplies.

Remember, a buffable finish can be applied on top of a non-buffable finish, but a non-buffable finish can not be applied on top of a buffable finish.

By following this floor finishing (waxing) procedure, the floor's appearance will be clean, attractive, and easier to maintain. 

How to Spray Buff Floors


To maintain the floor's appearance and cleanliness without having to wet scrub or wet strip. Spray buffing picks up dead finish and dirt, replacing it with a spray buff solution. It also levels and fills scratches and reduces the need for stripping.

Supplies and Equipment

Treated dust mop
Putty knife
Supplies/equipment for damp mopping and dust mopping
Disinfectant (if required)
Liquid or aerosol spray buff, try our SprayBuff product
Spray buffing pads, our white or red pads will do a great job
Floor machine
"Floor Hazard" signs


1. Prepare area for spray buffing:

  • Place "Floor Hazard" signs at easy-to-see locations near the entrances into the area being spray buffed.
  • Use a treated dust mop to remove dust and loose soil.
  • Use a putty knife to remove gum.
  • Depending on condition of the floor, damp mop if necessary.
  • If required, disinfect by following disinfectant label's instructions.
  • Attach buffing pad to the floor machine.

2. Inspect the room or area to be spray buffed to determine where attention is needed.

3. Starting at the farthest corner from the entrance, spray a 2' by 3' area in front of the machine with diluted finish or aerosol finish and buff immediately. Buff until glossy and not tacky.

4. Repeat same spray buffing operation for 2' by 3' areas until entire floor has the desired appearance.

5. When finished, remove the "Floor Hazard" signs.

6. Dispose of the used buffing pad

7. Clean and store the equipment and supplies.

By using this spray buffing procedure, the floor's attractive appearance can be maintained for longer periods without having to strip the floor and reapply the finish.


How to Buff and Polish Floors


To improve the attractiveness of the floor's surface by increasing the gloss.

Supplies and Equipment

Supplies and equipment used for dust mopping and damp mopping
"Floor Hazard" signs
Floor machine
Floor pads, our white or red pads will do great


1. Prepare the area for buffing:

  •  place "Floor Hazard" signs in easy-to-see locations near the entrances into the area being buffed.
  •  move supplies and equipment into area.
  •  dust mop area to be buffed.
  •  damp mop area if necessary.

2. Using the floor machine with a buffing pad, buff the floor area by:

  • starting along the baseboards at the farthest corner from the entrance into the room.
  • moving backward toward the entrance about 10' at a time, buff the room using a side to side motion overlapping the strokes.
  • Remember, when buffing a hallway, buff 12' along base board at a time on each side of the hallway, then buff the area between those baseboards.

Use a side to side motion in the buffing operation.

3. After buffing the entire floor area, use a clean, treated dust mop to pick up dust left from the buffing operation.
4. Clean the equipment. Store supplies and equipment.

After following this floor buffing procedure, the floor's appearance will be cleaner and glossier. 

Resilient Floor Finish Problems

In general, the higher solids content of a floor finish, the harder the finish is. This makes it more resistant to scratchs and abrasion. If you do not use a high speed buffing machine to maintain your floor, use a higher solids content finish. This is usually expressed on the label as "percent in solution." Another thing to consider is the cost of stripping and re-waxing. The longer a finish lasts, the less money spent in the long run. Buy the best finish you can afford, use the correct procedures to maintain the surface, and your dollars will not be wasted.  

Problem Look For
Low Gloss         High humidity, dirty mop, poor rinsing of the cleaning chemicals, recoated too soon, material was frozen.
Scuffing Coats are too heavy.
Powdering Low humidity, freshly stripped floor, pooly sealed, allowed to become "bone dry" before coating, drafts promoting fast vaporization of the film, coats too thin.
Streaking Dirty floor, dirty mop, pronounced high humidity recoated too soon.
Fish Eyes Greasy floor, soap film.
Peeling This can mistakenly be judged as extreme case of powdering. Some old waxy floor finish underneath new floor with original factory coating.
Black Heel Marks         Coats are too heavy.
Poor Flow Greasy surface. Examine container of the finish used. It was perhaps partly full, stored in a hot area, or not properly closed.